Via de la plata day 7: Fuente de cantos to Zafra, 25 km

Longer days = earlier starts. Beating the heat is probably the most popular topic of conversation at the moment, and it’s forecast to creep back up to 37⁰ by next Monday. At least the Spanish have perfected beer consumption in a hot climate: ice cold beer poured into a glass from the fridge.

Another pleasant day’s walking over rolling farmland – for the first hour in the dark we just made the assumption that it was pleasant. What wasn’t pleasant was us striking out of coffee at not only our departure town (not too surprising at 0530) but also at the next village at a more reasonable hour for commerce of 0700. After 21 km we finally found a cafe that was open but they’d run out of coffee temporarily. Once beans had been procured, the crisis was averted.

Zafra is the first major town of the camino, with many fine old buildings, more prosperity, and much more activity. The town was originally Arabic, but was captured by King Fernando III in 1241 during the reconquest of Spain. A later King granted the city to one of Spain’s most noble families, who built city walls and a palace (fort!) which is now a parador (a historic building that has been converted into a hotel). We had a good look at the central courtyard, but not any other rooms as paradors are not in the average peregrino’s budget!

After a tour of the town – there is no activity before the heat of the day has dissipated – it was dinner with the other peregrinos, provided by the albergue, which is a pleasant alternative to a regular restaurant meal.