Jaca to Canfranc Estachion, 24 km
I was expecting a long hard slog up into the mountains, but the day was actually quite pleasant for walking – until the wind picked up around noon – and the distance was about 6 km less than I had planned for, which was a pleasant surprise.
The valley up to the Somport pass is a bit of a canyon in places, and the wind gusts made retaining my hat challenging at times. A couple of times I had to sprint back down the hill to rescue it. Not easy in boots and a backpack!
As a major route through the Pyrenees since time immemorial, there’s plenty of evidence of forts and defensive structures, and several small hydroelectric stations. The towns thrive on skiers in the winter, and hikers in the summer. Pilgrims on the way to Santiago are an afterthought – as evidenced by the municipal albergue not being open at all yet, and the alternative independent albergue being closed on Monday. I only found this out when I knocked on the door. The owner, probably not realizing I was walking away from (rather than the usual to) Santiago, suggested the next town. Yeah, nah. The next town up the hill – at the pass between the two ski areas – is neither priced for, or seemingly available to, pereginos. Booking.com to the rescue!
Canfranc Estachion is an unusual town, as it is named after its railway station. After a disastrous fire way back, most of the population relocated to the village down the hill, which was subsequently renamed Canfranc! The station was opened in 1928, and was intended as a major freight and customs hub shared between France and Spain. After a rail disaster on the French side in the 1970s, the French railway company decided not to repair the line, and the railway complex went into significant decline. More recently, the provincial government has taken over, with the main building being converted from the original goods and customs hall into a high end hotel. One of the other buildings has been restored as an actual railway station, although there are not many trains – at least not until the through line to France is restored. A pair of old dining cars are now a stationary Michelin starred restaurant (closed on Monday seemingly, not that it would be offering a fixed price pilgrims menu!) Even though it is open to the public, I didn’t explore the entire complex as snow covered paths and walking sandals are not a good combo!
2saunter 