Day sixty-three: Sarzana to Massa

This is written from the end first: the Ostello run by the Capuchins no longer hosts pilgrims, and rather that back track, I resorted to booking.com. After some trials and tribulations – including a dying phone for reasons that will soon be revealed – I found myself in an Airbnb type lodging. When heading out for dinner, I asked the owner where I could get pizza. Firstly he gave me directions in Italian, but I got the gist: left, right up the stairs, left again. His wife provided the name:Quattro Elementi. Turns out this place wins awards for its pizza. What an experience! They say me ringside so I could see the guys at work. Actually they probably sat me there as every other table was reserved. Massa is not on the tourist circuit, and the few tourists who do stop by are unlikely to stumble upon this pizzeria on Via Roma. I’m exhausted from watching the guys make pizza – I tried timing them, and it was about 60 pizzas per hour. I took a video which I’ll upload to my Instagram. My pizza (I ordered one of their creations that had won in competition) is the one on the right. It was devine. The tiramasu and cafe were extremely good as well!
Before all that camino karma type stuff, it was an awesome day of walking once past the first two hours of walking through the tracts of ‘rural urbanizaton’. A steep climb into the hills resulted in a very pleasant walk on a narrow, local road whose only purpose it seems is to access the near vertical vineyards, but because grape harvest has started, the road was quite busy. Given the views out to the Mediterranean it should perhaps be named ‘Via Miramare’.
This also home to the massive marble quarries of Carrara. It may be hard to see in the attached pic, but huge chunks of the mountains have been carved away. I passed numerous marble dealers, and even the discard bin would-be a great source for home or school projects,like pot stands or coasters!
Having a smooth road to walk on also enabler to indulge: the Rugby World Cup is on, and although I’d expected to miss all the games in the preliminary rounds. I now know that an astute combination of my Canadian sports channel subscription, a VPN connection, and my massive Italian data plan (30gb for a month) means I can get my rugby fix while I walk. Smooth roads required however! For what it’s worth, the NZ All Blacks beat the South African Springboks. Yay. Not so sure about the the chances of my other home team, Canada, as they struggled to even qualify – and it doesn’t help that they are in the same pool as NZ and SA.
Daily km: 26.1

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