VF del sud day 15: Benevento to Buonalbergo, 24km

The weather was not conducive to photos today, but it was mostly ideal for a hard day on the VF. The relentless ascents and descents were modestly less exhausting as the sun remained mostly hidden – although the humidity wasn’t hiding. The path climbs up and over a number of ridges, and rather than the gentle gradient of a normal road, the inclined were vaguely similar to the Langford’s driveway (I realize this comparison will be lost on anyone who hasn’t experienced their driveway!) The agriculture has changed to tobacco farming, and there was lots of harvesting in progress (although I conclude from observation that perhaps tobacco harvesting is always in progress.

We got a huge break with the weather: having diverted a few hundred metres off the designated path to frequent the only cafe near today’s route, no sooner had we ordered coffee than a massive thunderstorm struck. It meant a prolonged coffee break, and some tiring walking afterwards as the mud clung to our boots on the trail. Perhaps one of the few times we wished the path was along the road!

Our accommodation tonight is one of the few albergues on the southern VF. A lady uses her late mother’s house as pilgrim accommodation, and is essentially a trail angel. While she actually lives a few doors down the street, she and her husband always make a point of making and having dinner with the pilgrims. We had lots of laughs communicating across the language barrier! She said they had 24 visitors in August, and only 10 so far in September. As it’s the only place to stay in the town, it shows how few people are doing this Camino.