Via Tolosana day 20: root canal

Ayguesvives to Saint-Paulet, 30.4 km

Not a selfie! The hospitalier offered to take a photo of me as I was leaving the old lock keeper’s house.

Last night was maybe the best stop yet: an  historic building (the stone lintel above the door is dated 1752), lovely volunteer hosts, and tranquil setting. The motorway noise was blocked out by the thick stone walls, and the other side was farmland.

The morning walk was another 20 km of canal. It made for fast walking, and the engineering and surveying marvel it represents are incredible, but after 45 km and 9 hours of walking I was done marvelling! The path departed from the canal at Naurouze, which is the point where the canal either flows east or west. Part of the design challenge for the canal was finding a water source to feed the flow at this mid point, so for the next couple of days the path follows the feeder channel which winds its way from the lakes in the hills to provide the water to make it all work.

The nicest converted barge I saw
The canal was originally lined with elm trees, but they got diseased and have been replaced mostly by plane trees. They’re all numbered – near Toulouse they are up to 35,000!

Tonight I’m staying in another little gîte that caters for pilgrims, but this one is private. I’m with 3 other French folks in a small cabin on the hosts property, but dinner was in their house. We were served cassoulet, a traditional dish from this region, made properly in an earthenware casserole. The sort of meal that an army could march on. Delicious! The host works at the local ‘castle’ and a a result has the key to the church. After 39 km, I didn’t feel like hiking up the hill to see it, but the key was impressive!

Not the key of life, but maybe the key to the life hereafter!

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.