Via Aurelia day 3: X marks the spot

Salon de Provence to Aix en Provence, 37.6 km

About the only redeeming feature of today’s marked path

It was a long day, but could have been longer. I was paying closer attention today, and not only did I not miss any turns, but I identified a few short cuts which shaved a couple of kms or more. Leaving Salon it was all road, and if it wasn’t for me zooming in on my French map app, I would have had no idea that I was walking on the ancient via Aurelia. No signs, no historical markers – just road. Countless layers of tarmac applied since its invention in 1902 has well and truly buried any remnants of the Roman way. Not until I crossed over the TGV tracks (using a bridge, in case you are wondering) did the scenery improve. Actually watching the TGV go by at 300 odd km/h probably classifies as a highlight as well!

This is actually in Salon. La Fontaine Moussue is a 16th C fountain but limestone build up and vegetation now makes it more like a mushroom
Salon is home to the French Air force training academy. Join the air force, play a round or two
Scenic highlight of the day. It’s poppies vs thistles in the weed playoffs
Aix is known for its fountains. This is the biggest, La Fontaine de la Rotunde ( which sounds infinitely better than ‘ the roundabout fountain)

May 1st is a National holiday in France – as it is in many countries, recognizing workers. Here in Aix, the only people working were those at the bars and restaurants, and they were packed. Aix, as you’d expect, was founded by the Romans and was the capital of Provence for a long time after it became part of France in 1487. It ceased being the capital during the Revolution. The old city is a labyrinth of alleys and crooked streets. After walking all day, my energy levels were not up to a thorough exploration, but I wandered at random for long enough to appreciate the appeal of the city. It appears to be a shopaholic’s paradise!

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