Uwajima to Seiyo, 20 km
Not a long day in terms of either distance or elevation, but enough to get the lungs and legs working after yesterday’s easy day.A long climb out of Uwajima on the former main road was relieved by a convenience store at the top. While we were sitting in the shade outside (on the ground as there was no where to sit, as per usual) a couple came up and offered us delicious mandarins. It was only after a few minutes and generous use if the translation app that they realized we were henros – as our backpacks were leaning up against the wall a short distance away. What we thought was settai was perhaps initially a gift to the itinerant foreigners! We gave them a maple leaf flag lapel pin in the interests of international diplomacy, but I’m sure they’ll be dining out on this event for a while!
Today we visited two temples: Ryūkōji (#41), which historically is where farmers prayed for good harvests as it was heere that Kūkai met s farmer carrying rice and thought he was a rice god (today they pray for prosperity, perhaps indicating the shift from farming to finance); and Butsumokuji (#42), where legend has Kūkai riding a cow and finding a jewel that he’d thrown from China. Originally a place to pray for prosperity, but now often linked to people praying for lost pets.
After the temples there was the day’s quota of huffing and puffing, a stiff climb on a great forest trail to get over Hanana-Toge pass. Of course there’s a route that takes the road, but it’s way longer and paved – something we endure way too much of!
Tonight we are staying in an Airbnb, with an extremely kind and generous host, Kyoko. As it’s slightly out if town (our first choice accommodation didn’t have room for us) she drove me to the supermarket to get provisions for dinner, and as I’d been asking about the different species of fish in the sashimi, she surprised us when we got back by giving us two trays as a gift. And it was delicious! We’ve experienced nothing but kindness and generosity from the local people, but this took it to a new level!
