Day trip to Temples 44 and 45, 23.8km
A beautiful but rather tough day due to elevation gains (980m up, and 980m back down!), but probably on the nicest trails yet, and in my mind, the most impressive temple. After breakfast sitting on the bench outside Familymart, it was paved roads to Daihoji (Temple 44), famous for its giant rope sandals at the temple gate. These are remade every 100 years apparently, but I haven’t yet found any information as to their significance!
From T44 it was an undulating trail (except for the inevitable road sections) up a steep hill and along a ridge before we descended towards Iwayaji, Temple 45. The geology in this area is amazing – towering cliffs that look like they are made of prehistoric concrete, full of round boulders (either from an ocean or river source I presume). Our path entered the temple complex from above – there is a path lined with 36 Buddhas and a locked gate that leads up to a sacred site where Kobai Daishi trained. The ravine is so steep that chains and ropes are installed to help you up. With our already tired legs, this was not that appealing! The entire site is considered a ‘nansho’, or difficult place, and even for henros on wheels it is a long and challenging climb up from the nearest car park.
So in terms of temples, we are at the halfway mark, but having already walked 800 km, we’re 2/3 of the way in terms of distance. And my boots are about 90% done, with the outer sole already wearing through to the foamy stuff. Finding size 13 shoes in Japan could be a challenge!
