This section can either be done as one longer day, or two shorter ones. We chose the former, and our shoulders are regretting it. We made an early start due to the anticipated hot weather, but it didn’t transpire – but no harm done. The path is the North Downs Way, but being our first day, it would be better names the North Ups and Downs Way. M&M’s trekking poles came into great use on the up bits. The public right of way at times cuts a swath through fields of wheat, barley, oats, a crop I didn’t recognize, and several pastures of chest high weeds and grasses. A machete attachment would have been handy.
Amenities are almost non-existent, but one detour along the main drag into Shepherdswell to the co-op grocery store scored us a late breakfast, and a less than successful shortcut resulted in a McD’s coffee even if the next saving in kms was less than anticipated.
Our digs for the night are the none too salubrious Dover Backpackers, but can’t fault the location: five mins walk to the ferry, and any closer to the White Cliffs and we’d be in a cave.