(just past) Mugi to Nukumisafin Beach, 20.5 km

We are in a Temple free zone until we get to Cape Muroto on Tuesday. Until then it is a long slog along the coast mostly on Provincial Highway 55. Max felt robust enough to walk today but not exactly bursting with energy. Our first stop of the day was at the inevitable convenience store for actual coffee and treats in plastic. Perhaps by the end we will have sampled every different one. We’ve already learned to differentiate between the ones in the cooler ( ingredients likely to go off in the 30⁰ heat) and the long life ones. Some have partial English labels, others are just a lucky dip!
Leaving the store we spotted a little bakery. The staff were greatly entertained by us analyzing the entire range of baked goods, with Google translate helping us make a selection for our lunch. When we were leaving the owner gave us each a bottle of chilled green tea as settai – part of the henro tradition.
The day was showery, but really only a heavy drizzle at times. It’s not wet enough to use our ponchos due to the heat and humidity. Sam likened the conditions as back-packing in a steam room. This is a sign at the henro hut where we briefly took refuge. It’s a step up from the earlier poster!

Our destination has a wonderful beach, but there was a major surfing contest in progress so we couldn’t swim. Apparently a surf beach here is exclusively for surfing – there are no areas marked off for anything else. We did paddle in the waves without getting yelled at, and the water was lukewarm – the warmest ocean water we’ve ever encountered, which took us by surprise. Despite all the surfers, the town has no restaurants or stores, so we(somehow it fell to me) to lug provisions for both dinner and breakfast from the closest convenience store, 5 km before our destination. The convenience store food is remarkably good however, so we’re not suffering – although I’m not sure why Japanese people don’t have scurvy.
It was a slow day in terms of scenery, so here are pics of the roadside flowers/weeds:







