For some reason - perhaps complacency - short days are harder than long ones. The prescribed day was to Dampierre-sur-Salon, but due to a lack of accommodation options, I booked a B&B a few km further on in Savoyeux. It was a day of wandering near rivers, firstly the Salon, then the Saône, which even … Continue reading Day thirty: Champlitte to Savoyeux →

I managed to move between two towns without hyphens. That makes typing a blog post on the phone a whole lot easier. I also took the direct route between the towns as the vf/GR145 does a big two day loop, which is not very enticing. It did make for a big day, but by following … Continue reading Day twenty-nine: Langres to Champlitte →

This should be a post of Bar-sur-Aube to Chateauvillain, but it didn't work out that way. I followed the signed route to start the day - a gruelling climb above BsA to the Roman encampment. The climb was aided by having found a coffee and a pain chocolat at 0700! When I next have WiFi … Continue reading Day 26 & 27: combo deal – 3 days of vf in one post →

After two days plodding through the industrialized farming landscape, it was a pleasant change to have scenery again. Even some vineyards, and apparently still in Champagne country, which came as a surprise to me. Once again I went rougue on route planning, and instead of following the GR145, I spent most of the morning walking … Continue reading Day twenty-five: B le C to Bar-sur-Aube →

A peaceful night's sleep at ESAT, not like the previous night where my roommate at the youth hostel snored in a way befitting a cartoon character. For the first time on a Camino I had to unearth my ear plugs. Last year he did the Camino Frances, no doubt leaving an incredulous and exhausted trail … Continue reading Day twenty-four: Le Meix Tiercelin to Brienne Le Chateau →

The signed GR145 takes a scenic route alongside the river Marne and its tributaries, and is significantly longer: 129km versus about 75km for the straight variant (I'll know the exact number when I get to Brienne tomorrow). There is also a new alternate route published by the Champagne regional tourism office, but after studying the … Continue reading Day twenty-four: Châlons to Le Meix Tiercelin, via Via Agrippa (aka the straight road) →

Actually, it was Condé-sur-Marne to Chalôns-en-Champagne to use the full names. Chalôns changed from sur-Marne to en-Champagne back in 1998. Clearly being associated with bubbly had a better marketing angle than the murky waters of the river Marne. The guidebook from the tourist office in Reims had icons of a coffee cup, supermarket trolley and … Continue reading Day twenty-three: Conde to Chalons →

Back on the trail again, and perhaps the url should temporarily be 1saunter, although it doesn't have the same ring to it. It does feel a bit strange not to have anyone to share wry observations with, but I'm sure Max appreciates no longer being the only victim of my "dad jokes". Today felt like … Continue reading Day twenty-two: Reims to Conde sur Marne →

I'm writing this on the TGV from Paris to Reims, so it maybe the fastest blog post I write. For anyone who perused the map of the vf, you will know that Sigeric never got any closer to Paris than Reims - which is precisely the reason we went. Actually the main reason was to … Continue reading Days off in Paris: 18, 29, 20, 21 →

As we enjoy a couple of rest days in Reims, maybe it is a good opportunity to give some background on the via francigena. The vf is significantly less well known than its cousins, the dozen or so pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, of which the Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese are the best … Continue reading Days sixteen & seventeen: Riems →