Sam contemplating what our breakfast voucher provided Another day strolling through vineyards and olive groves, although the scale of the operations had shrunk, which unfortunately meant more houses with dogs. One particular white dog came at us from a distance, teeth bared, with two shepherd cross mates circling somewhere in the vineyards. The owners couldn't … Continue reading VF del sud day 21: Cerignola to Canosa do Puglia, 18km →

Cafe view, Stornara We did a double day according to the app, but instead of 41km we did only 24km. The route took a wide loop so we optimized our effort. And our route was awesome. All sorts of agricultural activity - large production horticulture with planting, harvesting etc happening in all directions, and grape … Continue reading VF del sud day 20: Ordona to Cerignola, 24km →

Not the most inspiring day of caminoing, but the lack of hills, especially at the finish line, was appreciated by some tired legs and wonky knees. Big agriculture is so dominant that we were challenged to find shade to take breaks in. For the second day we resorted to abandoned farm buildings as rest stops … Continue reading VF del sud day 19: Castelluccio dei Sauri to Ordona, 19km →

Alternative energy, something we could have used today! Yet another day with a steep downhill start to ensure Sam's knee never had a chance to warm up. We have moved out of the hills and into a landscape of big farming. We saw more abandoned and crumbling farm houses than we saw being lived in. … Continue reading VF del sud day 18: Troia to Castelluccio dei Sauri, 22km →

View from the trail near Troia Our hybrid route added a few kilometers to our day, but had a double benefit: a gradual gradient (for the most part) and a mid morning cafe. To rejoin the route directly from Faeto would have been a steep downhill, followed by a climb back up to 900m, then … Continue reading VF del sud day 17: Faeto to Troia, 19.8km →

Do you trust AccuWeather? We awoke in the wee hours to the sound of drums and a flickering street lamp. Wrong on two counts, as it was an astounding thunder storm (it had to be to light up the room with the shutters closed!) After a ristretto provided by our host, we spent part of … Continue reading VF del sud day 16: Buonalbergo to Faeto, 31km →

The weather was not conducive to photos today, but it was mostly ideal for a hard day on the VF. The relentless ascents and descents were modestly less exhausting as the sun remained mostly hidden - although the humidity wasn't hiding. The path climbs up and over a number of ridges, and rather than the … Continue reading VF del sud day 15: Benevento to Buonalbergo, 24km →

The leaning Arch of Traiana, built to celebrate the completion of the via traiana. Eventually it turned into a very pleasant day, although Sam's knee may disagree with the first five km being pleasant. The day got off to a rocky start. Our Airbnb was good, but directions to it lacked a street number, and … Continue reading VF del sud day 14: Vitulano to Benevento, 16.5km →

Where we came from. Actually Faicchio is behind the bush on the right, but a 100ft cliff prevented the all encompassing panorama. A double day as the first leg was only 12km, and due to circumstances beyond our control, Telese Terme was also our first cafe stop. Once we'd located said cafe that is. Telese … Continue reading VF del sud day 13: Faicchio to Vitulano, 29.6km →

Where we came from. If you're able to zoom in, the 4th lump from the left has a Norman tower. That was a couple of days ago! A pleasant day with few busy road sections, but some gnarly climbs as we transited across the valley and onto the hills. The landscape has changed from the … Continue reading VF del sud day 12: Alife to Faicchio, 19.6km →