I wrote the entire post, but the world’s most highly regarded blog site is not designed to auto save, so once again I am spending my evening rewriting a post because the developers at wordpress are inept, and the site routinely loses a work in progress. Seriously pathetic. Other than blog site woes, the final … Continue reading Day eighty-six: omnes viae Romam perducunt →

It was destined to be a repeat of yesterday’s trail structure when just after a very pleasant and lengthy coffee break in Formello with an Aussie couple who i bump into occasionally (we first met on the Po river ferry on day fifty-four!) when a sign offered an alternate route. Even though this alternate route … Continue reading Day eighty-five: Campagnano to La Storta →

The day got off to a pleasant enough start with the descent from Sutri just a reverse of yesterday’s entry, and there were some Etruscan tombs and a great amphitheater carved out of solid rock. But after that things went downhill, starting with some confusing trail marking that did its best to have one walking … Continue reading Day eihty-four: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma →

After a restful night in my monastic cell and a dubious breakfast of long life bread pre-stuffed with jam and machine coffee, the day turned out to be one of the nicest walks in Italy. It helped that I spotted a bar after 20 minutes that provided a real coffee - standing at the counter … Continue reading Day eighty-three: Vetralla to Sutri →

An even shorter day, although I extended it a bit by heading to the Monastery a couple of km past the town. The first part of the day was pleasant, re-tracing my path through the medieval district and following the route that passed quite literally under the papal palace. Then there was a inetesting section … Continue reading Day eighty-two: Viterbo to Vetralla →

After breakfast in the monastery with the other pilgrims, I cheated on the route, skirting the hilltop fortress by way of the road. I'd already clambered up there twice and was quite sure the view would not have changed too much. The highlight of the day's walk was a long section of the old Roman … Continue reading Day eighty-one: Montefiascone to Viterbo →

The daily distances are getting shorter, but the legs are slowly running out of gas. The sign on the trail said it was one of the toughest days, but I suspect the intended audience I see those who start in Aquapendente - in which case they may find it brutal, as it was very undulating.It … Continue reading Day eighty: Bolsena to Montefiascone →

The overnight accommodation at the former monastery was wonderful. The volunteers were very humble and welcoming, dinner and breakfast excellent - one of the more memorable stops. As the weather forecast was for rain until mid-morning, everything was repacked in wet weather mode, with the rain jacket at full readiness at the top. And while … Continue reading Day seventy-nine: Aquapendente to Bolsena →

A wonderful morning for a saunter - clear, sunny, cool and downhill for a couple of hours into the valley. Stunning views everywhere, especially behind, where the tower of Radicofani just does not want to disappear. I have a bunch it can be seen from Rome. The road surface was a bit treacherous with long … Continue reading Day seventy-eight: Radicofani to Aquapendente →

This was a tough day and sure to be on my top five VF gruelling day list. Susan left today, heading back to Siena to rendezvous with Jack. This was probably a good thing as she may have baulked at the last 5km hill, which was unrelenting and tough on the feet in places. Prior … Continue reading Day seventy-seven: San Quirico to Radicofani →