After a restful night in my monastic cell and a dubious breakfast of long life bread pre-stuffed with jam and machine coffee, the day turned out to be one of the nicest walks in Italy. It helped that I spotted a bar after 20 minutes that provided a real coffee - standing at the counter … Continue reading Day eighty-three: Vetralla to Sutri →

An even shorter day, although I extended it a bit by heading to the Monastery a couple of km past the town. The first part of the day was pleasant, re-tracing my path through the medieval district and following the route that passed quite literally under the papal palace. Then there was a inetesting section … Continue reading Day eighty-two: Viterbo to Vetralla →

After breakfast in the monastery with the other pilgrims, I cheated on the route, skirting the hilltop fortress by way of the road. I'd already clambered up there twice and was quite sure the view would not have changed too much. The highlight of the day's walk was a long section of the old Roman … Continue reading Day eighty-one: Montefiascone to Viterbo →

The daily distances are getting shorter, but the legs are slowly running out of gas. The sign on the trail said it was one of the toughest days, but I suspect the intended audience I see those who start in Aquapendente - in which case they may find it brutal, as it was very undulating.It … Continue reading Day eighty: Bolsena to Montefiascone →

The overnight accommodation at the former monastery was wonderful. The volunteers were very humble and welcoming, dinner and breakfast excellent - one of the more memorable stops. As the weather forecast was for rain until mid-morning, everything was repacked in wet weather mode, with the rain jacket at full readiness at the top. And while … Continue reading Day seventy-nine: Aquapendente to Bolsena →

A wonderful morning for a saunter - clear, sunny, cool and downhill for a couple of hours into the valley. Stunning views everywhere, especially behind, where the tower of Radicofani just does not want to disappear. I have a bunch it can be seen from Rome. The road surface was a bit treacherous with long … Continue reading Day seventy-eight: Radicofani to Aquapendente →

This was a tough day and sure to be on my top five VF gruelling day list. Susan left today, heading back to Siena to rendezvous with Jack. This was probably a good thing as she may have baulked at the last 5km hill, which was unrelenting and tough on the feet in places. Prior … Continue reading Day seventy-seven: San Quirico to Radicofani →

I’m looking forward to the day when the only place name I need to spell is “Roma”. After several days of dodging thunderstorms, today dawned crisp, clear and soon to be sunny. For the first leg of the day we followed the busy road. The official route was up to the ridge then down into … Continue reading Day seventy-six: Ponte d’Arbia to San Quirico d’Orcia →

What a wonderful day of walking. Spectacular countryside after leaving the low cloud (foggy on Siena’s hill) and sauntering through the Tuscan countryside. We did a quick detour to the Duomo on the way from our apartment rental to the VF path, and were rewarded with a Piazza almost completely devoid of people, and the … Continue reading Day seventy-five: Siena to Ponte D’Arbia →

Leaving Monteriggioni was easy as it was a beautiful morning and there was no breakfast on offer to delay us. Even the cafes were closed. And as a bonus we got to see the first rays of the sun touch the town as we climbed the adjacent hill. A new day dawns on Monteriggioni Much … Continue reading Days seventy three & four: Monteriggioni to Siena →